Small flared placements can be dealt with very effectively; providing of course you’ve got some Peenuts on your rack.
These offset and tapered nuts are worth their weight in gold on granite and slate. They allow a bigger area of surface contact than the smaller brass micro nuts. This means that the energy generated in a fall is spread out and the rock is less likely to break.
If you climb on quarried rock a lot this type of nut really comes into its own. Nothing fits those flared peg scars like a set of Peenuts.
Asymmetrical taper gives stable placements in offset cracks
Large surface area effectively dissipates force
Colour coded for easy size identification
Passive protection works in wet and icy conditions
The Lowdown
Dimensions: 6.5 - 13.9mm
Weight: 61g
Strength: 4 - 8kN
Cerification: EN 12276:2013
DMM
DMM is an awesome recreational climbing and mountaineering equipment company from Llanberis North Wales. Founded in 1981 they still make and test all their gear from home.